Bourbon Heritage Month: The Mint Julep

Bourbon Heritage month takes place every September, and it's an excellent opportunity to explore the story of a famous bourbon cocktail - the mint julep.

Did you know that the julep began as a medicinal beverage? In fact, a traditional Persian drink mixes mint syrup or rosewater for health benefits. The drink made its way to Europe, where a "julep" referred to a very thick syrup infused with herbs, spices, roots, and so forth - basically medicinal syrup. The 18th-century American version of the Julep, specifically the daily tipple among Virginians, became mint, sugar, and whatever spirit was on hand. This was way before bourbon became the whiskey we taste today. At this time, moonshine or low-quality, high-proof rums would have been used instead.

By the 1840s, this common eye-opener was the chosen drink of high society. In the 1820s and 1830s, ice became more accessible, especially in establishments that could afford such a luxury. As Mark Twain once said, “in my time, ice was jewelry; none but the rich could wear it.” From here forward, the drink would always be served with ice. The julep also became synonymous with its vessel - a fancy sterling silver cup (not something every bar would have). With the addition of one or more spirits (Dutch gins, whiskeys, and Jamaican rums) as well as the wide use of fine French Cognac, the julep quickly became popular amongst those that could afford it. Those that could afford it were often plantation slave owners.

Enslaved people and Black barkeeps created the craft of the Julep and all its variations. Some of the best mixologists in Virginia were famous for their Juleps: Jasper Crouch from Richmond, Jim Cook and John Dabney (both enslaved at the Ballard Hotel), and more. John Dabney’s juleps were praised for their taste, presentation, & garnishes; people around the world, including royalty, referred to his juleps as art. John Dabney went on to build a family legacy after purchasing his freedom and his wife’s freedom. In New York, born enslaved New Yorker then emancipated Alexander Cato made the Manhattan Inn a julep destination.

The popularity of the Julep quickly spread throughout America, and foreigners traveled overseas to taste these concoctions. When the julep arrived on the New York scene, it was called a "Hailstone Julep" because of the tiny pellets of ice mixologists created by pounding the ice into small pieces with a hammer. This small, crushed ice is still the ice we use in the Julep today.

Now phylloxera had hit Europe and brandy was hard to come by. Post Civil War and heading into Prohibition, new cocktails replaced the Julep in popularity. With the lack of brandy available, whiskey, most often bourbon, became the spirit to use for the julep. In 1938, the mint julep regained popularity as the official drink of Churchill Downs, home of the Kentucky Derby. The Kentucky Derby serves over 120,000 juleps each year!

Toast the legendary mixologists who brought the julep to the world and make yourself a delicious mint julep or get creative with a variation! Enjoy!

Sources:

https://www.thedailybeast.com/the-lost-african-american-bartenders-who-created-the-cocktail

https://www.tastingtable.com/drinks/national/mint-julep-history-derby-day

Wondrich, David. Imbibe! Penguin Group, 2007.